Kart Racing Pro beta7

[Aritz]

The more I drive, the more I think two things:

-More front grip, a lot more by default, is needed. The only change I do in setup, is give more grip ahead and less behind, even with never used bars or chassis height. But seat movement doesn't work as I want to, with less than 60, the kart becomes a pendulum.

-I still think that grip level has to be more flexible (much more) or I am very dumb with driving... I am not able to control any kind of rear drift ever! I can't feel  what people are saying in this thread  Only very little movement, but never more than 2m long drift 

Nice improvement: KF3 hasn't now soft tyres, good point

One question, it is me or tyres are more difficult to warm up?

[The Iceman Marco]

I just did around 70 laps at Lonato with KZ1. The first thing I noticed was the sound, what happened with the sound, it's so soft. I really miss that screaming sound.

After 70 laps I still don't have a good feeling with it. It's like there is no front grip at all. I tried different setups, but it didn't matter what I tried. I couldn't get any front grip at all. For me it was the same as Aritz. I can't feel what other say about drifting. I can't get any oversteer at all, only some weird uncontrollable oversteer.

I couldn't find any improvements to the physics. I don't know what it is and I can't explain it good at the moment, maybe I need to do testing, but I'm too disappointed now.

[Stark]

Go back to beta 6 physics and work from there. Piboso, have you ever driven a kart in real life? 

[Josi]

Aritz, this schedule to carburate is it done after having the right front and rear sprocket ones? I mean you should have chosen before the right gear for the track...

...
- the default carburetor setup is very rich

Talking about carburetor setup, I have to add more:

A rich engine should have as low as 12500 RPM max on 20º with the tyres on air, and a lean one (remember that it has to break in the first straight) 15500-16000.

So from 0 to 5, we must have a very different engine: too lean 16000 but not useable, too rich 12500 and without any kind of power on track (but never will be broken)

The carburator setùp should be done on track:

Start engine, warm it and in the straight, full throttle on 4th gear. The perfect setup has to be a power loss at 14000 and the max rpm reachable must be 14500-15000, no more. If the power loss it sooner, the setup is rich and the engine will not reach 14000 ever. If it is later and the max rpm are 15000 or more, the engine is lean and the risk is very high.

With non KZ engines, the setup is the same, but it is more difficult to do, because the max rpm will be the fastest speed possible and the straights are not long enough for such testings... So I suggest that the engine carburator setup simulation tests and works, have to be with the KZ kart.

[The Iceman Marco]

Go back to beta 6 physics and work from there.

+1

[Aritz]

Aritz, this schedule to carburate is it done after having the right front and rear sprocket ones? I mean you should have chosen before the right gear for the track...

...
- the default carburetor setup is very rich

Talking about carburetor setup, I have to add more:

A rich engine should have as low as 12500 RPM max on 20º with the tyres on air, and a lean one (remember that it has to break in the first straight) 15500-16000.

So from 0 to 5, we must have a very different engine: too lean 16000 but not useable, too rich 12500 and without any kind of power on track (but never will be broken)

The carburator setùp should be done on track:

Start engine, warm it and in the straight, full throttle on 4th gear. The perfect setup has to be a power loss at 14000 and the max rpm reachable must be 14500-15000, no more. If the power loss it sooner, the setup is rich and the engine will not reach 14000 ever. If it is later and the max rpm are 15000 or more, the engine is lean and the risk is very high.

With non KZ engines, the setup is the same, but it is more difficult to do, because the max rpm will be the fastest speed possible and the straights are not long enough for such testings... So I suggest that the engine carburator setup simulation tests and works, have to be with the KZ kart.

For the carburetor setup, always is better to have the gear chosen, but the carburation with KZ is not gear dependant or it shouldn't be... You can break the engine in 3rd gear in the middle of a turn or in the fastest straight on 6th, engine doesn't know where are you. Well, this is not exact, a very fast speed, engines run leaner than slow parts because of the extra air entry of the filter, but this is not a very big deal.

[Diddy4957]

I'm going to sound stupid but I did a test on a track, and changed to carburater setting from 4 to 3 and got even more understeer then normal. I was on Lonato and when I changed to carburater down to 3 the kart had too much understeer to take the first corner flat on the same setup as it did on 4.

[PiBoSo]

I just did around 70 laps at Lonato with KZ1. The first thing I noticed was the sound, what happened with the sound, it's so soft. I really miss that screaming sound.

After 70 laps I still don't have a good feeling with it. It's like there is no front grip at all. I tried different setups, but it didn't matter what I tried. I couldn't get any front grip at all. For me it was the same as Aritz. I can't feel what other say about drifting. I can't get any oversteer at all, only some weird uncontrollable oversteer.

I couldn't find any improvements to the physics. I don't know what it is and I can't explain it good at the moment, maybe I need to do testing, but I'm too disappointed now.

Sadness

Have you tried changing ackerman setting?

[Dan Buck]

i dont know what kind of controller setup you guys are using but here i can feel difference in between 10 to 20 laps, or so...
the feeling of the go kart keeps changing during the run!!!!! and i can lose my rear end oh yeah! especially when the tyres are tired (and the driver as well! hehe)

im still getting front grip (its indeed still not perfect, theres a lot to improve in this point, imho), its not like you guys are saying 'i cant get any front grip'...

well, i'll let PiBoSo work on it and will let you guys that might have more feeling than me talk about it! and i will watch and learn, seated and relaxed! hohohooh

[Racehard]

I am going to test some more now, but my first impressions were the same as marco's as I've already tried to express.

EDIT:

I think la conca is a good track to test understeer and turn in over steer through turns.

I tried ackermann MIN, this setting makes it more enjoyable definitely. But it is even easier to notice exactly when turning the steering wheel beyond a certain point gets useless and the bad thing is that this happens very early so on standard set there is massive understeer. It is possible to make the rear step out in a quite nice way on turn in some times though, but then again very soon the understeer returns and turning the wheel over a certain point (reached very ealry which is bad I think) doesn't make no sense anymore because the kart is already understeering.

EDIT2:
The CRG KF3 (is there any physics differnce between the birel and crg chassis) again feels a bit more familiar, but still annoying understeer. I have to say though the braking definitely improved, it is more controlleable for sure but not completely natural. (Is natural/ perfect even possible because of lack of gforces??)

[The Iceman Marco]

I did again some testing with KZ1. It already goes much better now. I changed my wheel rotation to 160 degrees and started with the default setup at lonato. I only changed the drivetrain, used 3l fuel and used soft tyres. For the rest I leave all as default.

The first thing I noticed was that I couldn't get my tyres warm. After 10 laps they were still cold. So I had to use a much higher tyre pressure. I did around 50 more laps to get some rubber. I only changed the tyre pressure a few times until I had the right. I ended up with 41.9. which isn't that bad. I really started to get the real feeling again.

For me it also looked like the KZ1 had less power as in B6. I thought I could be the carb settings. In default it was 4, but I tried 0. It immediately had much more power like in B6. I was half a sec faster with only that change with carb setting. I don't know much about carb settings, so you shouldn't ask me about how it should be. But Aritz said you use 0 only with extremely high temperatures or on high altitude, while I drove with 16 degrees air temp like I always do. So that's kind of strange.

The braking in B7 is much better. But like Racehard I'm also wondering about how realistic it's possible to make because this is a sim but still a great improvement. The direct steering and the feeling on the kerbs is also more realistic I think. I didn't change my setup so I still had the understeer, so about the steering and the kerbs I have to test more when I improve my setup.

So B7 isn't as bad as I thought yesterday, but I still think that the default setup should have much more front grip. I can say more about that when i tested more of the setup

[PiBoSo]

The first thing I noticed was that I couldn't get my tyres warm. After 10 laps they were still cold. So I had to use a much higher tyre pressure. I did around 50 more laps to get some rubber. I only changed the tyre pressure a few times until I had the right. I ended up with 41.9. which isn't that bad. I really started to get the real feeling again.

Is it difficult to warm all tyres, or front one only?

[The Iceman Marco]

In the beginning with 0.6 bar it was hard to warm all tyres.

[Eslotes]

Btw does any effect of different model,in real,some chassis are faster than the other on a track..

[Eslotes]

Doble post not allowed i guess,Today had a black screen online rare,yesterday also in Willis fun race (FAIR PLAY) server.