Kart Racing Pro beta7

[Aritz]

I've found the right KZ1 handle with very high caster setting (25º) I can do fast direction changes with low steerwheel turn and oversteer appears as it should.


Now the problem is the drift control, which is very difficult with such high caster. I've tested with real setup values like 1380mm real width, no rear bar but seat stays putted (I use 3 on my kart but KRP doesn't allow this value, so 4 selected) I don't know real seat position value, so I've selected 58, medium, which is probably too much forward for such caster. I will test 60 and 62 values now.

I can't feel differences with some settings as the front width (not too much either with rear width by the way) nor carburetor setting. A lean carburation should give a lot more power than a rich one, do this work in that way? Of course a lean carburation should be a risk with low temp or long full throttle straights! Not tested but for example; 0 should give us the maximum 16000 RPM and 5 should lower the RPM to 14000 with 20º degrees and 0m height. Then the game should brake engines "randomly" if we are always with very high RPM or the choosen carburetor setup allows more than 16000 rpm (because of the low temp mostly).I know this is not that simple... But I think this way can be followed until a good balance between realism and playability

[Aritz]

Carburetor settings are indeed quite good, there is a big power loss with 5. I think it should be a lot more though.

Let's be more technical using real values. I will compare them with a "standard" needle K98 on a TM engine, which are quite good fuel comsuption engines (Maxter uses 10 or even less values). I am simplyfing as much as possible:

0 could be a "chicle" of 140. Only used with very high temp such as 35º, or with very high track (+1500m). You can't use 140 with colder weather, no way. You should break engine in the first straight or even starting the engine.

1 should be then 150. Perfect for a standard track with 120m straight and 30º, so hot day, or with a high track (+1000m)

2 - 160. The most used chicle on summer 23-28º. Almost impossible to break the engine, even with long straights. It should be used for important races with lower temps but with quite high risk of break

3 - 170. Same as 2 but with colder days 15-20º. This setting, should be the chosen one with the KRP standard temp 20º, with no engine breaks but no the higher power possible

4 - 180. For cold days 10-15º

5 - 190. Almost never used on my area but still is needed when the day is really cold 0-10º

Those values should have a random engine breaks, exponentially acording the carburator setting And yes, engine breaks are common and a fact in races.

[Eslotes]

Few bugs and important things on the birel.

Real life: It has little bit of dust 
http://www.abload.de/image.php?img=08102012444lcuo3.jpg
KartRacingPro:

[Martin Moggia]

How i modify the ratio to 3:1 i can't now in the beta 7

[EVO]

because most carburators are different the lableling should probably go    very Lean,  lean,  nuetral ,  rich, very rich

[dibu]

Carburetor settings are indeed quite good, there is a big power loss with 5. I think it should be a lot more though.

Let's be more technical using real values. I will compare them with a "standard" needle K98 on a TM engine, which are quite good fuel comsuption engines (Maxter uses 10 or even less values). I am simplyfing as much as possible:

0 could be a "chicle" of 140. Only used with very high temp such as 35º, or with very high track (+1500m). You can't use 140 with colder weather, no way. You should break engine in the first straight or even starting the engine.

1 should be then 150. Perfect for a standard track with 120m straight and 30º, so hot day, or with a high track (+1000m)

2 - 160. The most used chicle on summer 23-28º. Almost impossible to break the engine, even with long straights. It should be used for important races with lower temps but with quite high risk of break

3 - 170. Same as 2 but with colder days 15-20º. This setting, should be the chosen one with the KRP standard temp 20º, with no engine breaks but no the higher power possible

4 - 180. For cold days 10-15º

5 - 190. Almost never used on my area but still is needed when the day is really cold 0-10º

Those values should have a random engine breaks, exponentially acording the carburator setting And yes, engine breaks are common and a fact in races.

Very good point.
Yesterday I tried the KZ1 at 16° with carburetor = 0. Even after multiple stints of 20 laps the engine didn't blow. 

[Aritz]

Are new features or fixed bugs (see below) for the track exporter?

I have a weird problem. I've created the second texture for track with those grey spots on it (For tyre marks, a second texture can be defined using Opacity channel and a secondary UV mapping.)

I can see them with the mapvier but they are missing on game, why?

If they are visible in Map Viewer but not in Kart Racing Pro then it's most likely a bug.
Is it possible to download the MAP file to test it?

[Eslotes]

I get lag when we are track with 3 people already.Any solutions?

[Schwoni]

i have the same, i think that`s because we see tire marks and dusk of the other drivers. In lonato i have 80 fps alone, and with 4-5 guys in screen 30. But if u disable shaders, or lower graphics it should work better.

[Eslotes]

i have the same, i think that`s because we see tire marks and dusk of the other drivers. In lonato i have 80 fps alone, and with 4-5 guys in screen 30. But if u disable shaders, or lower graphics it should work better.

Thanks Schwoni,will try tomorrow. 

[PiBoSo]

I get lag when we are track with 3 people already.Any solutions?

Sorry for the poor performances. One the main tasks for Beta8 will be optimizations.

[Eslotes]

So on beta 8 should we able to do race with no lag and no problems?

[PiBoSo]

So on beta 8 should we able to do race with no lag and no problems?

Hopefully 

[Eslotes]

Thanks.

[Doug H]

Hummm   just installed beta7 and  lost kark racing pro  ICON   ??