Starting Setup / Setup Guide

[Nathan Dunnett]

EDIT: Old info, to be updated.

[Aritz]

Excellent, thank you!

I have real world questions for you if you don't care, I am going to start a Offtopic thread

[Aritz]

Testing; first impression, almost perfect

I don't like toe in value, is too much for me

[Nathan Dunnett]

No worries happy I've helped someone! haha

[RevTurk]

Great guide, thanks. Just bought the license last night and plan to spend the weekend messing with it.

I was wondering what things like the seat settings where all about and especially the soft/hard rear axle.

No mention of the sprockets though, someone on another forum recommended adding more teeth to the large sprocket and I found that made an improvement.

[Nathan Dunnett]

Well with sprockets, what you are actually changing is the gear ratio, and this setting is completely up to the track. To calculate the gear ratio, it is driven over driver, or in other words rear sprocket divided by front sprocket. The larger the number, the shorter the gearing, and the faster the engine will accelerate at the cost of top speed. Typically the fastest drivers are the ones with the tallest gearing (smaller gear ratio... bigger front sprocket/smaller rear sprocket) as they keep better mid corner speed and don't need as much acceleration to reach the same top speed. In real life this is a very complex thing as you have to balance this with other settings like the port timing of the engine, exhaust length, tyre pressure (lower pressure = larger grown tyre circumference = taller gearing) but in KRP it is kept very simple as all these other variables are controlled. The easiest way to find a starting point is to find whatever gearing yields the highest top speed. Start with the default setting (12 / 82 IIRC), note the top speed then take a tooth off (reduce the rear sprocket by 1). If you get a higher top speed, take another tooth off or vica versa until you get your maximum speed. This isn't always the optimum gearing as for some tight and twisty tracks you are better off sacrificing top speed for acceleration.

edit: I've made a few changes, whatever PiBoSo changed in the physics for b5 (or maybe it's just been a little while since I've driven KRP) made my setup way too loose, but there is good news, the new setup is even better. Faster and more controllable.

[RevTurk]

I was on my way back to say I couldn't get that set up working for me the arse of the kart was all over the place.  I brought down the camber and toe in but I'm still just experimenting.

I'll try the new settings, but since buying the game I'm being distracted by new content. 

[Nitrox]

Thank you for this guide, it is really good. Increasing caster to 12 and setting Ackerman to min brings back the feeling i had with beta 4.

[RevTurk]

Updated setup works a treat. Back of the kart is much better.

How different are the karts? Can this setup be used universally?

[Nathan Dunnett]

Not sure to be honest, I only drive the KF1 usually, haven't driven the KZ since beta 4 so I'm not sure if it has changed or not. Can't hurt to give it a try.

[Nitrox]

See my post above, i tested this with KS

[RevTurk]

Bit of a silly question with regards the seat position. Does moving the seat in the positive direction move the seat backwards and negative forwards? Same for the vertical. Positive lets the backrest back and positive moves the seat forward so the driver would be hunched over the steering wheel? Then the stays, do they move the seat back/forward/up/down?

[EVO]

The stays stiffin the chassis.  The vertical seat position moves the set down(-) or up (+). There is no seat angle adjustment.  I noticed many shifter racers
with their seat very angled back like a lazy boy chair to get more grip down.  I think front grip suffers from this though.

[Nathan Dunnett]

Positive is up/forwards, as far as I know the angle stays the same. A seat stay is just a bar which at one end is bolted to the top of the seat, and at the other end bolted to a rear axle bearing carrier.

See this pic: http://www.tonykart.my/images/seat-adjustment.jpg

There are 2 stays on the left and 1 on the right. A seat stay will take load off the waist of the chassis and transfer it to the rear axle instead, which makes the chassis 'twist' less mid corner, in turn the kart doesn't oversteer as much and it is more controllable.

[RevTurk]

So what are the recommendations for Beta 6? To be honest default is working well for me, especially on eassy. If anything I experience a good bit of understeer no sign of the kart spinning out on me at all. All I've done is increased the front tyres pressure to 65, changed the rear axle to soft 50, changed the castor by one degree (for no other reason other than messing) The toe in settings are a bit different though.