• Welcome to Kart Racing Pro Official Forum. Please login or sign up.
 
March 28, 2024, 12:09:18 PM

News:

Please read the FORUM RULES


Setup guide

Started by Aritz, May 08, 2011, 08:04:07 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

T.J. Koyen

Haha I was like, "fuber girl...?" but then I clicked on the link and saw her. And yeah, she's hot. hahaha
Merlin/Parilla
Team MerlinUSA Factory Driver
www.merlinusa.com
www.oktanevisual.com
www.koyen.net

Schwoni

i don`t see her :(
but now an important question:
in chassis i use front: vertical and loose
middle: flat and loose
rear: out and loose
i tried one time on back vertical and loose too after this change the kart have had so much grip on front
steer a lil bit and it started to drift
maybe too much drifting so not good but feels like good grip on front.
But i don`t understand this values! what are the crashbars? for me this are the plastics xD
so there are the crashbars for front middle and rear wich i don`t understand and the other thing where we can change to flat and vertical is a bit understood^^ this are the stabilizer for front middle and rear? please explain me too this flat and vertical. than i can be sure if i understand it right.

Thanks

T.J. Koyen

Schwoni,

Here is a photo of the Tony Kart front torsion bar:


You can see that it isn't round, so you can twist it in the chassis to be either vertical or flat. A flat front bar isn't as stiff as a vertical front bar. So vertical front bar gives you more front grip and flat front bar gives you less front grip.

I'm a little confused on the crashbars as well. I think it refers to these:


Side nerf bars


Front metal bumper loop


Rear bumper cross (sorry for small image)

Except that we don't have rear bumper crosses like that anymore so that's why I was confused.

Hope that helps.
Merlin/Parilla
Team MerlinUSA Factory Driver
www.merlinusa.com
www.oktanevisual.com
www.koyen.net

Schwoni

ok i think it helped but with the crash bars i still don`t understand ^^ when they are loose they fly away xD or start jumping a lot i think this piboso have to explain us.

T.J. Koyen

Well if the crashbars are as I've shown above, then you can run with them loosened or tight depending on how much you tight the nuts and bolts. You can loosen the nuts a bit on the side crashbars and they'll wobble more, giving the chassis more flex.
Merlin/Parilla
Team MerlinUSA Factory Driver
www.merlinusa.com
www.oktanevisual.com
www.koyen.net

EVO

June 03, 2011, 07:54:20 AM #20 Last Edit: October 31, 2011, 12:44:05 AM by evo1087
My Friend has the CRG with 32mm tubing and 50mm axle, he says its really stiff so he runs with all torsion bars out and crashbars tight.  This gives the chassis flexibility. he also takes a coulple of the floor pan nuts and bolts out. not sure if that legal but he says it helps.

In real life on cold days or low grip tracks you want to run stiff and on hot days or high grip tracks you want to run the very soft.  Too much grip on a hot day will bind the chassis slowing you down. 

from CRG guide
To download all my dashes, airboxes, tracks, and more
click here or see my personal website

wwfowler

Thanks to all for the good information. This will help me better understand how to start tweaking from the defaults. Good job!

EVO

Here is something I also go by.  I dont not know if it helps for KRP though it should

To download all my dashes, airboxes, tracks, and more
click here or see my personal website

alphafloor

Nice job Evo, thanks for these tables!

I'm not sure what is meant by the column "Push/Kick", can you explain?

EVO

August 11, 2011, 06:35:49 AM #24 Last Edit: August 13, 2011, 12:00:51 AM by evo1087
push kick = understeer then sudden oversteer

good to hear from you alphafloor

Guys let me know if this makes you faster in game.  It works great for R.L.
To download all my dashes, airboxes, tracks, and more
click here or see my personal website

oppolo

what it "neutral setting" for caster and camber?
i read tony kart frame has caster 18 by default and i start my setup from this value.
then i set the camber reading the wear of tires, it seems strange that in slippery condition i have to set it at maximum, because the tire will touch the ground only with the edge in my opinion.

EVO

August 13, 2011, 12:06:34 AM #26 Last Edit: August 15, 2011, 11:43:58 PM by evo1087
i believe nuetral is the factory or medium setting.  not high or low.

Artiz explains CAMBER and CASTER best on the first page

How it works is
more camber the kart will have less contact patch going straight, better for accerlation and top speed (less resistance).  In corners the cornering forces will casue chassis to flex then making use of more contact patch. Similar to suspension travel and roll in a car. having too much camber and you are no longer using all the contact patch thus unbalancing the kart.

Caster makes steering harder becuase your are pushing the inside tire into the track to force the inside rear to lift.  Setting up based on avaliable grip is best, then dialing out the issues that arise from increased track grip, track temperture, etc. 

For the KRP i would suggust the maximum grip setup at all times Labled as slippery condtions in my chart. If you feel the kart is slow even though it is handleing nuetral (no understeer or oversteer) you should dial some of the grip out and maybe use normal conditions set up

You should always aim for a nuetral handeling setup though so depending on grip levels setup the kart to handle nuetral

If the kart does not behave nuetral with the above chart use the one above that to dial out the understeer or oversteer or binding issues (to much grip)
To download all my dashes, airboxes, tracks, and more
click here or see my personal website

EVO

August 15, 2011, 11:33:05 PM #27 Last Edit: October 31, 2011, 01:09:46 AM by evo1087
Use the charts on the right in the garage after each outing in practice to see your tire wear.  If your front end is setup proplerly for the available grip you should have almost equal wear across all tires.  This does not mean that all tires have the same wear but that each wore out evenly. 
Becuase of the inside rear wheel lifting in corners and camber on the front tires.  Tire wear will never be equal.  Near to equal is best  that way use on the available grip.  If you have to mcuh grip however you can easily remove some.  I think for most people finding the grip is the hard part

Same goes for the rear if the axle, ride height, track width, and chassis flexiblity are right for the availaible grip you should have near equal wear across each tire.


Has anyone had success with these tables in game and TJ's awesome detailed setup guide?  they work for me.

Seat position makes the biggest difference.  At bueren I move the seat forward and up to get more rotation in the slow turns. if its too much i move it backwards.   On fast tracks I have the seat low and back 

I attached some setups for high grip DRY and Wet. They go in my documents > piboso > kart racing pro > profiles > (ur profile) > setups > track  > (t-kc3,t-kc1,c-kc3.......etc)
To download all my dashes, airboxes, tracks, and more
click here or see my personal website

EVO

October 31, 2011, 12:56:47 AM #28 Last Edit: November 03, 2011, 05:47:41 AM by evo1087
I noticed alot of people are faster then me coming out of corners not because of gearing but becuase of chassis stiffness.  Binding.


quote from fastest guy in KRP about seat position
Quote from: Schwoni on November 02, 2011, 03:28:51 PM
i use h = 4, V = -2 and some chassis changes and it don`t understeer it more oversteer first right while pushing full throttle and go through curve.  you have to do it  carefull because if not u spin ;) if u want i can send u this setup and u can try because chassis causes very much too for that.
To download all my dashes, airboxes, tracks, and more
click here or see my personal website

Nathan Dunnett

Anyone having trouble understanding kart setup should look at K-Racer. It is all about real life setup but it should mostly apply to KRP.

Firstly I think you should watch some of his videos to help get an understanding of the big picture. Actually I think all his videos should be watched, but most important watch all of the videos in Steering, Roll Stiffness in Chassis & Bars, and the two Rear Track videos in Axle & Hubs.

I also recommend reading some of his blogs:
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-nitty-gritty/seats-more-than-just-a-chair-part-three
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-nitty-gritty/seats-more-than-just-a-chair-part-four
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-nitty-gritty/effects-of-camber
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-nitty-gritty/effects-of-camber-a-final-thought
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-nitty-gritty/rear-track-width
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-big-picture/when-something-good-is-bad
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-big-picture/slip-angle-or-what-your-tyres-are-really-doing
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-big-picture/slip-angle-in-karts-part-tw
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-big-picture/whats-going-on-my-karts-coming-off

If anyone has any questions understanding anything he is trying to explain, or any of the settings on KRP just ask, I like to think I have a good understanding haha.