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Yeah I know, I just assumed that the game would simulate the karts without modifications (you need to drill and tap new holes to fit Snipers to most other karts). Yes but eccentric bushes don't allow as much adjustment as snipers do, you can dial in more caster with snipers than you can with Tony Kart adjusters for example due to the nature of eccentric bush adjusters.

It's the larger scrub radius that you need for medium to high grip tyres that makes it harder, I'd never run that much caster now. Still though, it is very possible to dial that much caster in. Probably not with standard parts with the Tony Kart or the Birel, but I'm pretty sure the CRG has Sniper adjusters which would give that much adjustment.

I've raced with 20 degrees before, it's not that bad.

They aren't 1 degree adjustments though, I think they range from 10-16 degrees or something like that.

No, 200 celsius. 

Because the S runs at over 200 degrees. Choking cools temperatures by up to 20 degrees and also improves engine braking. Some corners I don't even lift off the throttle, I just brake and choke. The J on the other hand only runs at 160-180 and most people don't bother choking.

Sure, no problem.

You simply won't get data for it because the engines don't run that low, only at idle with no load. If you made numbers up it would not change the driving experience. By Australian rules you will generally run approximately 5500-11000 with a J and 8000-15500 with an S, below that it won't matter what numbers you use because they will only be used to get out of the pits.

It's very dependant on speed too, for example we should have much more drag at 120 km/h (KF1) than we do at 90 km/h (KT100J, cadets). A senior driver also has a bigger frontal area due a wider kart and taller driver. Does the new cadet kart use the same aero data as the senior karts?

Hmm, I'll wait until beta 9 and have another try at this so I can mess around with the mini.

11.5 hp peak at around 7500 RPM, 8.8 hp at around 11000 RPM. In real life we would use 11/71 gearing with a rear tyre circumference of approx 865mm and rev to 11200-11400 RPM at the end of a mostly flat 100m straight with an entry speed of around 6200-6500 RPM. I must be doing something wrong somewhere although I double checked everything twice.

Is it just me or does it seem far too excessive? I didn't realise until I made up engine files for a KT100J based off a real dyno sheet from one of our own engines, and I could barely go over 80 km/h at Lonato. I even made sure it permanently had perfect carburetion and optimum temperatures so that I was getting full power from the engine. Using the same gearing in real life at a track with a shorter straight and a tighter corner leading on to the straight this engine easily does 90-92 km/h without draft or ducking. I had to give the engine way more power than what it realistically has to get almost normal speeds out of it, and then if I tried to duck I would get like an extra 6-7 km/h whereas in real life it's more like 1-2 km/h tops if you're lucky and there is a head wind. Just by ducking I was gaining 1.5 seconds per lap at Lonato which is completely ridiculous for low speeds in good conditions. I haven't been on track with another kart that wasn't blinking and warping all over the place yet but I imagine the draft effect is massive, can anyone confirm this?

Ah I see. That would have been an interesting drive lol.

Nathan, Australia where?
I've a business partner in Sydney

Everywhere if you race under AKA (95% of Australian karters do).

http://www.karting.net.au/media/rules/2013-AKA-MANUAL-ADD-1-10-V2.pdf

25.07

1. Braking of the rear wheels ONLY except
(a) the following classes: 125 gearbox, Intercontinental C, Open Class with 2 stroke
engines having a total capacity of 125 cc or greater capacity, or
(b) if detailed in class technical chapter

KZ on SL1's? What kind of ass hat organised that combination? Could you even get full throttle without wheel spin in the dry?