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Messages - Nathan Dunnett

166
Suggestions and wishlist / Re: Engine Tuning on Track
January 28, 2012, 05:42:49 PM
+1

As said, choking under braking when running lean mixtures is done for 2 reasons: to get extra lubrication to prevent seizure, and to control temps by temporarily richening the mixture when power output doesn't matter so much.
167
Setups / Re: Starting Setup / Setup Guide
January 28, 2012, 04:54:58 PM
Well with sprockets, what you are actually changing is the gear ratio, and this setting is completely up to the track. To calculate the gear ratio, it is driven over driver, or in other words rear sprocket divided by front sprocket. The larger the number, the shorter the gearing, and the faster the engine will accelerate at the cost of top speed. Typically the fastest drivers are the ones with the tallest gearing (smaller gear ratio... bigger front sprocket/smaller rear sprocket) as they keep better mid corner speed and don't need as much acceleration to reach the same top speed. In real life this is a very complex thing as you have to balance this with other settings like the port timing of the engine, exhaust length, tyre pressure (lower pressure = larger grown tyre circumference = taller gearing) but in KRP it is kept very simple as all these other variables are controlled. The easiest way to find a starting point is to find whatever gearing yields the highest top speed. Start with the default setting (12 / 82 IIRC), note the top speed then take a tooth off (reduce the rear sprocket by 1). If you get a higher top speed, take another tooth off or vica versa until you get your maximum speed. This isn't always the optimum gearing as for some tight and twisty tracks you are better off sacrificing top speed for acceleration.

edit: I've made a few changes, whatever PiBoSo changed in the physics for b5 (or maybe it's just been a little while since I've driven KRP) made my setup way too loose, but there is good news, the new setup is even better. Faster and more controllable. :P
168
Off-Topic / Re: Help with real Kart SETUP
November 11, 2011, 02:02:50 PM
In a way yes, but it can work both ways. If you are getting too much weight transfer and overloading the outside rear while the inside is up in the air (which from what I hear is common in shifter karts, but don't quote me on that) you will benefit from a lower CoG (centre of gravity). Although, if your CoG is too low and your inside rear is stuck to the ground, this can also give the feel of oversteer as the fronts may overcome the bind and send the rear end into a slide.
169
Off-Topic / Re: Help with real Kart SETUP
November 11, 2011, 01:13:33 PM
I haven't had any real life experience with shifter karts, but a local gun driver I am good mates with told me when he went from KF2 to KZ2 with the same chassis and same compound of tyres he put on long hubs and dialed in a lot of negative camber, basically to try and get better rear grip out of the corners as he was sliding everywhere. It sounds like it might help you to move your seat back and down (if you can), that generally will settle the kart down especially if you are suffering hopping. Good luck. :)
170
Setups / Re: Starting Setup / Setup Guide
November 11, 2011, 01:02:53 PM
No worries happy I've helped someone! haha
171
Setups / Starting Setup / Setup Guide
November 10, 2011, 06:46:38 AM
EDIT: Old info, to be updated.
172
Suggestions and wishlist / Re: Fix Suggestions
November 09, 2011, 03:45:32 AM
- add a unit (mm?) for toe... and make it a 'per side' setting (ie. like camber)
- add a unit (mm?) for camber
- add the ability to change rims (different widths, different shape, aluminium vs mag, etc.)
- add the ability to change hub length
- add more axles, ie. extra soft, different brands (an OTK axle will behave differently to a CRG axle), etc.
- add the option to tighten/loosen the floor pan

Also I was thinking for the seat position, let us change the angle and maybe make a screen to show the other dimensions of the position? Like how far the top lip is from the axle in mm, distance from the bottom of the seat to the bottom of the chassis rails, front of the seat to the front bar on the chassis, or other measurements you would use to position a seat in real life.
173
Setups / Re: Setup guide
November 09, 2011, 03:28:37 AM
Anyone having trouble understanding kart setup should look at K-Racer. It is all about real life setup but it should mostly apply to KRP.

Firstly I think you should watch some of his videos to help get an understanding of the big picture. Actually I think all his videos should be watched, but most important watch all of the videos in Steering, Roll Stiffness in Chassis & Bars, and the two Rear Track videos in Axle & Hubs.

I also recommend reading some of his blogs:
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-nitty-gritty/seats-more-than-just-a-chair-part-three
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-nitty-gritty/seats-more-than-just-a-chair-part-four
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-nitty-gritty/effects-of-camber
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-nitty-gritty/effects-of-camber-a-final-thought
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-nitty-gritty/rear-track-width
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-big-picture/when-something-good-is-bad
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-big-picture/slip-angle-or-what-your-tyres-are-really-doing
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-big-picture/slip-angle-in-karts-part-tw
http://kracer.com.au/blog/setup-big-picture/whats-going-on-my-karts-coming-off

If anyone has any questions understanding anything he is trying to explain, or any of the settings on KRP just ask, I like to think I have a good understanding haha.