EDIT: Old info, to be updated.
Excellent, thank you!
I have real world questions for you if you don't care, I am going to start a Offtopic thread ;)
Testing; first impression, almost perfect :D
I don't like toe in value, is too much for me
No worries happy I've helped someone! haha
Great guide, thanks. Just bought the license last night and plan to spend the weekend messing with it.
I was wondering what things like the seat settings where all about and especially the soft/hard rear axle.
No mention of the sprockets though, someone on another forum recommended adding more teeth to the large sprocket and I found that made an improvement.
Well with sprockets, what you are actually changing is the gear ratio, and this setting is completely up to the track. To calculate the gear ratio, it is driven over driver, or in other words rear sprocket divided by front sprocket. The larger the number, the shorter the gearing, and the faster the engine will accelerate at the cost of top speed. Typically the fastest drivers are the ones with the tallest gearing (smaller gear ratio... bigger front sprocket/smaller rear sprocket) as they keep better mid corner speed and don't need as much acceleration to reach the same top speed. In real life this is a very complex thing as you have to balance this with other settings like the port timing of the engine, exhaust length, tyre pressure (lower pressure = larger grown tyre circumference = taller gearing) but in KRP it is kept very simple as all these other variables are controlled. The easiest way to find a starting point is to find whatever gearing yields the highest top speed. Start with the default setting (12 / 82 IIRC), note the top speed then take a tooth off (reduce the rear sprocket by 1). If you get a higher top speed, take another tooth off or vica versa until you get your maximum speed. This isn't always the optimum gearing as for some tight and twisty tracks you are better off sacrificing top speed for acceleration.
edit: I've made a few changes, whatever PiBoSo changed in the physics for b5 (or maybe it's just been a little while since I've driven KRP) made my setup way too loose, but there is good news, the new setup is even better. Faster and more controllable. :P
I was on my way back to say I couldn't get that set up working for me the arse of the kart was all over the place. I brought down the camber and toe in but I'm still just experimenting.
I'll try the new settings, but since buying the game I'm being distracted by new content. ;D
Thank you for this guide, it is really good. Increasing caster to 12 and setting Ackerman to min brings back the feeling i had with beta 4. ;)
Updated setup works a treat. Back of the kart is much better.
How different are the karts? Can this setup be used universally?
Not sure to be honest, I only drive the KF1 usually, haven't driven the KZ since beta 4 so I'm not sure if it has changed or not. Can't hurt to give it a try. :)
See my post above, i tested this with KS ;)
Bit of a silly question with regards the seat position. Does moving the seat in the positive direction move the seat backwards and negative forwards? Same for the vertical. Positive lets the backrest back and positive moves the seat forward so the driver would be hunched over the steering wheel? Then the stays, do they move the seat back/forward/up/down?
The stays stiffin the chassis. The vertical seat position moves the set down(-) or up (+). There is no seat angle adjustment. I noticed many shifter racers
with their seat very angled back like a lazy boy chair to get more grip down. I think front grip suffers from this though.
Positive is up/forwards, as far as I know the angle stays the same. A seat stay is just a bar which at one end is bolted to the top of the seat, and at the other end bolted to a rear axle bearing carrier.
See this pic: http://www.tonykart.my/images/seat-adjustment.jpg
There are 2 stays on the left and 1 on the right. A seat stay will take load off the waist of the chassis and transfer it to the rear axle instead, which makes the chassis 'twist' less mid corner, in turn the kart doesn't oversteer as much and it is more controllable.
So what are the recommendations for Beta 6? To be honest default is working well for me, especially on eassy. If anything I experience a good bit of understeer no sign of the kart spinning out on me at all. All I've done is increased the front tyres pressure to 65, changed the rear axle to soft 50, changed the castor by one degree (for no other reason other than messing) The toe in settings are a bit different though.
amazing topic m8... it helps a lot!!
can you change the setup to Beta 6 standard
I'm still yet to try B6, my internet is really crappy at the moment but it resets in a few days so I'll download it then and redo the setup. I plan on making a loose setup and a tight setup this time.
i did like 50 laps today and the default setup was really good. I am eager to to see how you improve it and get the loose and tight handling characterisitcs.
Did a few laps today, is it just me or have the tyres changed? Do not like the way the kart handles at the moment, I can't seem to get any balance into it with setup either. It has an unbelievable push on entry, which leads to giving too much lock, which then makes it slide out on exit. It's almost like the chassis is cracked or something. I think the sidewalls of the tyres are too stiff, I'll try to figure it out and get a setup but I didn't make much ground on the default setup. On the plus side, the KZ shifting is fixed. :D
Just like to say i use this setup with Carb 3 works pretty smoothly :)
PiBoSo the seat horizontal is measured from the front of the kart? becasue 64cm is about 2' or 24"
Quote from: ^^ SpOOnziLLa ^^ on March 13, 2013, 01:36:46 PM
Just like to say i use this setup with Carb 3 works pretty smoothly :)
That's pretty amazing, I wrote that a year ago on an old version of the game. :D I'm downloading beta 8 now, I might make a new setup and guide next week.
Here is my setup for KF1 at Lonato that did a 42.7 second lap time.
Brakes
Front: 20% (didn't use them anyway)
Rear: 78%
Engine
Idle: 25
Carburetor: 3
Radiator Cover: 35%
Chassis
Rear axle: 50mm - soft
Front bar: vertical
Front crash bar: tight
Mid bar: out
Side pod bars: loose
Rear bar: out
Rear crash bar: loose
Seat
Horizontal: 57.0 cm
Vertical: 1.0 cm
Stays: 2
Drivetrain
Front: 12
Rear: 82
Steer
Ratio: max
Ackermann: max
Front
Caster: 16
Camber: -7
Pressure: 0.75/0.75 bar
Ride height: 3.0 cm
Toe out: 4
Track width: 1220 mm
Rear
Pressure: 0.65/0.70 bar
Ride height: 3.0 cm
Track width: 1390 mm
It is a fairly loose setup, I'll post a more stable setup suitable for racing later and after I test at more tracks I'll update the setup guide. Until then only some of the setup guide is accurate, and I would start from this setup instead of the one in the first post.
Quote from: Nathan Dunnett on March 22, 2013, 04:33:36 PM
Quote from: ^^ SpOOnziLLa ^^ on March 13, 2013, 01:36:46 PM
Just like to say i use this setup with Carb 3 works pretty smoothly :)
That's pretty amazing, I wrote that a year ago on an old version of the game. :D I'm downloading beta 8 now, I might make a new setup and guide next week.
aha! nicee man! hope to race with ya some day :D
tried this and it has worked well gained 1 and a half seconds (but i'm still pretty shit)
very nice setup, a bit loose like you said but comfortable.
thanks for sharing!
this setup should apply well to other karts aswell?
Edit: this setup is amazing, it should be the default for the game, you can control the car much better, feel the oversteering and drift a bit and not spin inmediatly
thanks a lot Nathan!
just one question, is this a typo?
Engine
Idle: 25 <-------- probably would be 2?
Not a typo, higher idle makes it more stable off throttle. I think I should lower it though to make it rotate better in the low speed stuff. The setup will work on other karts to an extent but you will need to change it a bit, gearing and carby settings will probably be different but most things should transfer fine. For a KF3 setup, try the one I posted in this thread (http://forum.kartracing-pro.com/index.php?topic=2657.msg23803#msg23803) because it is on different tyres.
ok, thanks, i didn´t go so high in the idle option, but after i tried again it was ok.
so far i tried this setup and works with most of the karts, of course the gear ratio is something that depends on the track.
thanks again, this setup made me love the game again :) i will try the other setup aswell for kf3
whats the difference between flat and vertical front bar?
flat is softer
thanks, i tried nathan's setup for kf3 @ lonato and i'm within 1 sec of the stats laptime :) very nice, with just 10 laps
Yeah, stiffer front end will make it turn in better but it won't carry the inside rear wheel for as long so it might make exits slower depending on many things.
if you want know how a kart chassis works, read this http://www.kartingsa.com.au/kart%20manuals/ArrowManual.pdf
thanks guys, such a little machine, but since there's no suspension (directly at least), they figured out several ways to setup the car
being no differential, kart is generally understeering, for making it turning, chassis have to lift the internal rear wheel, the way this happens the way it behavious