Help with real Kart SETUP

[Aritz]

I have an Intrepid Cruiser KZ2 kart. It is fast in good hands (spanish champion last year and my kart is his trainning kart) but I am not good pilot at all... So I want to learn how to improve the setup.

Now it has not excentric adjustment and the kart oversteer a lot at turn exits. Can someone help me with easy changes? The 2º excentrics are bought and waited, so caster and camber will be adjustable soon. I don't have money for axles or better tires... Only setup changes

My listened english is not so good, I barely understand K-racer spoken help  I am reading the tutorials and they are great, but we can write here for everybody, not only me

Thanks

[The Iceman Marco]

Maybe I can help you, but I need to know what tires you have and especially how much grip they have.

[Nathan Dunnett]

I haven't had any real life experience with shifter karts, but a local gun driver I am good mates with told me when he went from KF2 to KZ2 with the same chassis and same compound of tyres he put on long hubs and dialed in a lot of negative camber, basically to try and get better rear grip out of the corners as he was sliding everywhere. It sounds like it might help you to move your seat back and down (if you can), that generally will settle the kart down especially if you are suffering hopping. Good luck.

[Aritz]

Thank you both

I am using Vega FH, 55 durometer.

I can move the seat down but I thought it is a bad change; less rear grip. Am I wrong?

[Nathan Dunnett]

In a way yes, but it can work both ways. If you are getting too much weight transfer and overloading the outside rear while the inside is up in the air (which from what I hear is common in shifter karts, but don't quote me on that) you will benefit from a lower CoG (centre of gravity). Although, if your CoG is too low and your inside rear is stuck to the ground, this can also give the feel of oversteer as the fronts may overcome the bind and send the rear end into a slide.

[Nitrox]

I just drove a few times, but as far as i know shifters need a higher front  track width. This could also help to reduce oversteering..

[The Iceman Marco]

I can't help that much like I exspected, because I have tires which have to much grip. So I always try to as less grip as possible like driving with positive camber and small track widths etc. But my rain tires don't have much grip, so with them I want more grip. Maybe that's a bit the same as you have.

What I do in the rain is try to get much camber to get much front grip. Then the kart I going to oversteer a lot, so I have the max rear track width. Then I got a bit understeer. And then I increase my front track width until I think I drives perfect.

Maybe you can try that. First try to get much camber, then max the rear track width and increase front track width until you think it's perfect. If the rear track width is already on his max I would give it less camber. I don't know how it's with the seat position and if you can get more rear grip with it. If you can get more rear grip with it you can try that instead of increasing the rear track width more (if it isn't possible to increase more). You can also try both if possible and you need more grip on the rear.

About the toe-in I can't say much. I always drive with toe-in "-1" and it's always good.

The last thing. You know how to change camber etc, and do you only have 2º excentrics or the 1º aswell?

I hope you can do something with this information and that everything is clear because my English isn't perfect aswell

[cnt997]

Something that can help is just going out to the track and screw around with bassically everything on the kart. Mess with caster, camber, front bar, rear bar, tp, and anything else you can change. Put in a lot of laps with maybe a tight setup and then loose to get a feel for how the kart changes with more grip and less. That really helped me, after i did that i went from the back to mid pack in nationally races and winning my regional championship just knowing how to setup the kart.

[Aritz]

Well, yesterday was the day and it was rainy lol

We had a very funny day anyway and I did what I had to do, test with all I could. My last setup was:

-Maximun caster
-Standard camber (I didn't try more settings)
-No bars, no stays.
-2cm higher seat
-135cm rear width
-2cm opened each side front width

I did quite good times with very old and almost dead Vega W4 tyres (2006!!) and I would improve it if the engine wouldn't broke...
(I am uploading the last testing laps video with the new W5 tyres)

[The Iceman Marco]

You can try 140cm rear track width and a bit more camber. To make it perfect you can in/decrease you're front track width with 0.5cm until it feels like you want it to feel. That work very good for me when it's raining. 

[cnt997]

is intrepid stiff or soft?

[Aritz]

is intrepid stiff or soft?

30mm and I feel it soft

[The Iceman Marco]

I've always driven with a 30mm intrepid, but the last half year with a 32mm, that one should be more stiff but I didn't notice it at all. So I think all intrepids are soft.

[EVO]

What do you guys thing the chassis difference should be between TK and CRG

I say TK soft, good over kerbs, and good for tight tracks
        CRG   stiff  rough over curbs and good for fast tracks

Maybe its best for close racing that their is no diffrence, but for realism i think their should be.  Maybe their is but no one knows for sure